Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
